/王麗英
因緣際會第一次造訪非洲,確實令人興奮了好幾天,啟程先從台灣飛到香港,再轉南非約翰尼斯堡,三轉到史瓦濟蘭唯一的國際機場(Matsapha Airport),整整花掉24小時,雖然疲憊心情卻還是充滿新奇輕鬆。
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剛跨出機場,進入眼簾的是湛藍的天空、朵朵的白雲,一眼望去更是綿延天際的草原與丘陵,路上車輛不太多,一路奔馳在顛波的公路上,牛羊恣意的漫步公路兩旁, “小心牛隻”是這裡常見的警告標誌,車窗外的空氣好甜,微風輕送,彷彿置身在一幅會移動的迷人畫布中,八月-南半球冬末初春的景緻,讓人陶醉,被這等悠閒的氛圍感染,幾乎忘卻了旅途中的勞頓…
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在Swaziland(號稱非洲小瑞士)待了10天,在這個度假天堂裡,我們盡情的享受了非洲異國的風情,處處充滿驚艷,景色更是令人目不暇給,所見所聞絕對值得分享;
萬人選妃舞彩繽紛蘆葦節(Reed Dance)
每年最大的慶典活動蘆葦節,就在8月底舉行,由王母與國王共同主持,來自全國各地數以萬計的未婚少女,齊聚在 Ludzidzini 王母皇宮的大草原,連續二天就住在大草場上,身著史國傳統的立海雅上空服飾,五顏六色的彩裙,各式羽毛的髮飾,一起在這個重大節慶載歌載舞。
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我們很榮幸的受親王之邀,得以在王宮禁區觀看少女列隊進場,輕盈曼妙的舞姿,高亢強烈的原始非洲歌謠,舞步與歌聲震天,滿場塵土飛揚,舞隊在壯觀威嚴中有著少女的浪漫與柔情,第二天正式上場,進到貴賓觀禮台目睹盛大場面,萬人齊列,國王恩史瓦帝三世( Mswati III)親率衛隊及各部落酋長檢閱,不同舞隊更以飆歌相互較勁,此節慶的由來,傳聞國王是藉此慶典選妃,但事實上,主要為了鞏固部落,人選大多早已決定。
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Swaziland單一種族民風純樸友善熱情
史國人口種族單一,人民善良熱情,對來自台灣的人更為友善,特別喜歡甜食,也喜歡拍照,開車為右駕靠左行駛,除首都墨巴本(Mbabane)有高樓建築外,其他地區大都是兩三層樓建築或平房,傳統的圓頂蘆葦房建築是主要特色之一,奇花異草甚多,早期也有少數的歐洲移民,不同族群在此匯集融合,產生了優雅精緻與粗曠傳統的特殊人文氣息。史國位於高原區,緯度和台灣大致相同,氣候乾燥涼爽、風景秀麗,有歐洲小瑞士之稱。
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Swazi Candles蠟燭觀光工廠
值得一遊的還有當地蠟燭工藝,各種不同的造型,與當地特有的蠟染工藝,石雕木雕,手做自然純樸色彩豐富,具體呈現了非洲特有的民俗文化藝術。
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HLane國家野生動物
史瓦濟蘭有六個Big Game Parks,因時間有限只參觀了東北邊的HLANE的野生動物園,開車在園區參觀,動物都是天然野放,聽說有獅子、野牛、羚羊、野豬、長頸鹿、馴鹿、斑馬、犀牛等,可惜獅子、犀牛都沒見到,倒是斑馬非常機靈,車未到已群起飛奔而去,唯獨野豬面對鏡頭露出獠牙毫不退讓,也捕捉到珍貴畫面;野生動物園裡,衛星導航完全無用,因為收不到訊號,哈~園區提供的導覽地圖簡單到用A4紙影印,害我們差點就繞不出來。
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Muguga Dam天然水壩
西北方的Muguga水壩景色山巒交錯,山頭因冬末乾旱季節,草地枯黃,水壩水位較低,湖面清澈無波人煙稀少,顯得特別寧靜,頗有《千山鳥飛絕,萬徑人蹤滅》的意境,在視野遼闊春風送爽的Muguga Lodge吃午餐,漢堡超大,牛肉多汁鮮美,約85史鍰(相當台幣200元),如同仙境般享受。
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天然景色渡假莊園處處可見
史瓦濟蘭有著天然的丘陵高原地形,加上人口較少,主要住宿都以農莊形式經營,形成特殊的農莊飯店風格,建地幅員遼闊。此行正好有機會住了幾家不同的農莊,也參觀了一些莊園,簡單略述供讀者參考;
1.Summerfield Garden (Manzini)
莊園面積很廣,驅車進入樹木花草茂盛,維護相當雅致,歐式建築為人工湖環抱,晨曦或黃昏時刻,湖中倒影令人心醉。
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2.Royal swazi spa(皇家飯店)
位於曼齊尼市中心,非常高級的皇家飯店,有高爾夫球場、賭場及溫泉游泳池等。
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3.Mountain Inn(山巒飯店)
依山而建,景色秀麗,視野廣闊,離塵不離城,交通便利。
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4.Nisela safaris
很濃烈的非洲莊園氣息,有國王親筆簽名,且各有兩個分館,形態各異。
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5.Maguga Lodge
位於Maguga Dam旁,依山傍水遺世獨立,如世外桃源。
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6.Sobantu Guest Farm
離Magugu水壩不遠,靠近南非克魯格國家公園,附近有瀑布及岩畫可遊覽,位於高處俯瞰視野極佳,傳統蘆葦屋可以住宿體驗非洲人的生活。
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7.Malandela^s
一望無際的大花園,在樹下用餐,草香飯香融為一體,無比暢快。
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史瓦濟蘭旅遊資訊
史瓦濟蘭位於非洲南端內陸國,三面為南非圍繞,東北與莫三比克相接,面積不到台灣的2/1,人口約140萬,經濟活動主要仰賴南非,採君主立憲。治安大致良好,有部份大陸及台灣人經營中餐館,首都墨巴本有華利餐廳、中華美食餐廳;曼齊尼(Manzini)有蒙古餐廳;Matsapha有新城餐廳;Ezulwini有大台北餐廳及樂怡坊餐廳。氣候屬南半球亞熱帶型,每年9月至翌年3月為雨季;高地年平均溫約攝氏16度,低地約23度,日夜溫差大。英語為官方語言,超過80%人口以農業維生,惟貧富不均,城鄉差距甚大。自來水品質尚可,惟須經煮沸後始可飲用,電壓為220至230伏特。
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參加國際商展及專訪生技公司胡董事長 / 王忠信
透過外貿協會及立恩公司胡董事長的邀請,今年得以參加史瓦濟蘭8月底舉辦為期10天之「國際貿易商展」。國王恩史瓦帝三世,親臨台灣館致意,並親切詢問台商女企業家胡董事長在該國從事的生技農業投資情形。
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會後並專訪胡董,述說2013年公司因參予投資史國綠色能源計畫,在史國南部MATATA成立了種源場,專營蓖麻樹的能源生技產業,2014年開始擴大種植,雇用當地農民增加就業機會,深獲該國表揚。在商展中,特別免費提供種子及種植方法並保證收購,許多當地農民及皇家親王詢問熱切,相信生技產業將為史國農業再造的明日之星。
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